Alpamayo Summit
























Description
In 1965 the Peruvian mountaineer César Morales Arnao received a letter from the mountaineer director of the German magazine Alpinismus, inviting him to send on behalf of Peru the photos of the Peruvian mountains that could enter to compete in the Scenic Photography Contest,3 which would choose the ten most beautiful mountains in the world.
Located near the village of Alpamayo, between the Los Cedros and Arhuaycocha streams, in the district of Santa Cruz, province of Huaylas, department of Ăncash, it has a glacial area of 4.69 kmÂČ, with a minimum altitude of 4,745 m and a maximum of 6,005 m. s. no. m
The Alpamayo has 13 routes; among the best known are the Basque-French, Ferrari and Japanese. Access to Alpamayo lasts approximately 5 to 7 days. Currently the expeditions ascend the Arhuaycocha ravine, climbing the south west wall (Ferrari route), which was climbed in 1975, with an ascent grade of D (difficult).
Includes:
Acclimatization Tour.
Transport Huaraz - Cashapampa - Huaraz.
Official mountaineering guide UIAGM - AGMP (English, Spanish)
Porter to mobilize the collective equipment.
Specialized cook.
Muleteers and Donkeys for the transfer of the logistic equipment (15 Kg per passenger), to Alpamayo base camp.
Food: 4 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, box lunch, and dinner)
First aid kit and oxygen cylinder
Personal climbing equipment (crampons, ice ax, harness, helmet, boots)
Camping equipment for more than 5500m (tents, sleeping bag, mat, kitchen, utensils)
Group equipment (ropes, carabiners, stakes, etc.)
Advice before the expedition.
Pick up at the terminal and transfer to your accommodation.
Entrance Tickets to the PNH
Last day: Dinner and typical drink in Huaraz.

Recommendations
- It is important that the participants have previous experience at altitude for adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to have been above 4,500 meters above sea level.
- An acclimatization and preparation program is recommended prior to your ascent with the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 3 days. We recommend acclimatizing in the Churup Lagoon or previous climbing to Nevado Mateo.
- Staff Team
- Personal identification documents.
- Mountain backpack (65 liters).
- Sleeping bag (-25 C) â If you don't have it, we'll provide it for you.
- Walking poles if you have bad knees.
- Hiking boots â If you don't have one, we provide it for you.
- Headlamp (with spare batteries)
- Sun protection: sun cream (minimum factor 40), cap, good sunglasses
- Mountain boots or trekking shoes.
- Comfortable clothing: T-shirt (quick-drying or merino wool recommended), trekking pants or leggings, sweater, wool trekking socks, underwear, long thermal underwear, fleece, gloves, hat, buff.Warm jacket such as Polar
- Waterproof jacket
- Down jacket quality 650 to 850 thermal degrees
- Waterproof jacket and pants (Gore-Tex recommended)
- Gore-Tex Gloves â If you don't have one, we provide it.
- 1 liter bottle of water, We will provide you with boiled and purified water.
- Toilet paper, toiletries, small towel.
- Extra snacks and money.
- First aid kit
- Light clothing for trekking.
Tour Plan
Departure from Huaraz in private transport that will take us to the city of Caraz, then to the town of Cashapampa where we will begin the walk along a path that will lead us to the Llamacorral camp (3760 masl) where we will spend the night.
Departure after breakfast; During the journey we will visit the Ichicocha and Jatuncocha lagoons, also during the tour you will be able to observe the Taulliraju, Quitaraju, Artesonraju, Pucajircas and Alpamayo snow-capped mountains.
Departure after breakfast heading uphill through the moraine to then pass over the glacier where it will be necessary to use climbing equipment, from there to the high camp where we will spend the night.
This day the departure is early, around 1:00 am, already with the technical climbing equipment to be able to ascend to the summit, then we will return by the same route to the Alto camp. If we are in the conditions it will be possible to descend directly to the base camp.
We will begin the descent along the same route towards the moraine and then to the base camp, where we will spend the night.
After breakfast we will descend through the Arhuaycocha ravine to then tour the entire Santa Cruz valley to the town of Cashapampa. Transfer to Huaraz by private bus.
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8 Comments
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